Archive | March 2010

“Seville is a pleasant city, famous for oranges and women” – Lord Byron

 

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The remaining 4 of us took a 5 hour bus ride from Lagos in Portugal to Seville in Spain yesterday.  Seville is the capital of Andalusia, the southern region of Spain.  For the fans of opera, it is home to Don Juan (Don Giovanni), Carmen and Figaro.  It is also said to be home of the famous Spanish hallmarks bullfighting, flamenco and tapas.  It is an absolutely beautiful and charming city.

We’ve spent the past 2 days wandering the old city.  The 2 biggest sites of note are the Reales Alcazar (Royal Alcazar) and the Catedral de Sevilla which is connected to the Giralda Tower.  The cathedral is the largest gothic building in the world and Europe’s third largest church.  The tomb of Christopher Columbus lies inside.  La Giralda is the Moorish tower that is next to the cathedral and is the city’s most famous symbol.  It was a minaret for when the Muslims ruled here, but was changed to a bell tower when the Catholics took over.  The cathedral is immense!  Right next to it is the Alcazar.  It used to be a Moorish fort/palace (built by the awesomely named Pedro the Cruel) but is now a Spanish royal residence that is still in use today. The building is the result of an interesting combination of Arab and Christian architecture and we easily spent a couple hours here.
 
Like Lord Byron said, the streets and boulevards are filled with orange trees which is actually pretty cool.  Not that Phil or I are noticing since we love our girlfriends, but my friend Jay tells me there are also lots of beautiful girls.  Last night we were in an energetic district eating tapas and drinking beer, walking from bar to bar to check out the scene.  Jay spotted a group of pretty girls to his left…and kept walking while looking at them…straight into a sign post.  Can you embarrass yourself anymore buddy?  Anyways, the nightlife was lively to say the least.  The bar we ended up at was playing a weird mix of disco/funk/golden oldies (it was recommended as having great music by the guy who helped us check in to our place) but the vibe was awesome.
 
Tonight we went to check out a flamenco show.  There were a couple guitar players and singers, but that was about as similar as it got to the fado show in lisbon.  There was a lot of stomping, clapping, and passion.  I know the passion part sounds corny, but I really can’t find a better word to describe it.  We went to a place that supposedly held on to the gypsy roots of flamenco more than the others in town.  I’m no flamenco expert but it definitely felt authentic.  One of the gypsy woman dancers must have been at least 45 but the combination of the deep painful expression in her face, her proud upright torso (almost like a bullfighter’s stance), her flowing arms with snapping hands, and her lightning fast feet made for a bewitching and powerful performance.  No one there could take their eyes off the stage.  What I liked best about the performance though was the fact that all of it seemed improvised between the performers, not rehearsed.   They seemed like they were really enjoying themselves.  And to be honest, so does this whole city.  
 

 

 

Sagres – The End of the World

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We’ve spent the last 3 days surfing in a town called Sagres, at the very south western tip of Portugal in the region known as the Algarve.  It was once known as o fim do mundo (the end of the world).  It was from here that Prince Henry the Navigator launched Portugal on the seas of exploration in the early 1400s.  Vasco da Gama, one of Portugal’s most well known figures, reached India in 1498 and was thus able to dominate the Indian Ocean and all its trade.  By the early 1500s Portugal became the first of the great European maritime empires.  Ok enough with the history lesson.

Even with all that history from this town, you don’t feel any of it at all here.  Sagres is now a full on resort town with a dominant surf culture.  The bars lining the main strip (of 2 blocks) serve burgers and play Bob Marley, just like any other surf town in the world.  When you go to the beaches, the parking lots are filled with Volkswagon Campers.  As the sun rises, long haired European surfer dudes emerge from the cabins.  This being low season, it seems like only the hardcore surfers are here.  You hear an equal mix of German, English, Spanish and Portugese when the surfers talk to each other.  We seem to be the only novices catching waves (or more like the white wash) out here.  The temperature is definitely not warm and we’re all surfing in wetsuits, but it’s been awesome.  Supposedly it’s packed here in the summers with people from all over Europe who like to bask in the sun.  I’m glad we’ve spent the low season here though because the beaches are empty and there’s tons of room to practice our surfing.  Tomorrow we part ways with Andrea and Sherman as they head to London.  Ron left to France this morning, and the remaining 4 of us will head to Spain.  It’s been fun Portugal!

Best Egg Tart Ever!

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We've been in Portugal for a week and a half now, we haven't been wow'ed by any particular food we tried, except for the Portugese egg tart from the Pasteis de Belem.  They are served warm, with just the right crunchiness on the outside and the perfect silky smooth texture on the inside.  The filling is not too heavy nor too bland.  The secret to enhance the taste is the powdered sugar and cinnamon powder that you can add on after.  I miss the po tat already!

Trust the local way

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After the previous bad story, I thought i’d share something more light hearted.

We’ve been staying at fully furnished rental apartments, which has been working out great for us.  Having a washer is a very convenient thing when you are traveling.  To be able to do laundry on the road is like… heaven. 

We soon realized in our 2nd floor apartment we had a washer but no dryer.  After having walked around Lisbon for a bit, we noticed people hang their clothes, sheets, you name it, right outside their front window.   So one day, eug was nice enough to do our laundry.  When he opened our front window and started hanging our clothes I heard him saying ‘this is so GHETTO’.  Turned out he was complaining about the ghetto clothes hanging clips on the railing which he thought wouldn’t hold.

That evening I thought I’d check on our clothes outside.  It happened to be a particularly windy night.  I opened the window and saw three shirts.  I was like eug, how many shirts did you hang?  I only see three.  He’s like ‘what?!’.   We then looked down on the street and his green beer chang shirt was lying on the curb!  He ran downstairs to pick it up and found the rest of our clothes along the street, and one of my t-shirts was hanging on our 1st floor neighbour’s window which he had to jump up to grab.  I guess he decided to not use any ghetto clips at all!

Sometimes maybe the ghetto way just works.  Trust it once in awhile.    

Time to surf

We have our new passports!  We picked them up yesterday morning at the Canadian embassy.  They’re just temporary passports but when we go to Morocco our permanent ones should be waiting for us at the Canadian embassy there.  Unfortunately the weather in Lisbon was terrible yesterday, so we basically spent the day in coffee shops and restaurants.  The highlight of the day, apart from getting our passports, was checking out a fado performance.  Someone we met told us it was a style of music characterized by mournful tunes and melancholy lyrics, or Portugese emo he called it.  There was a singer, a classical guitarist, a Portugese guitarist and a bass.  To be honest the music was moving, powerful and beautiful and if you can you should youtube a fado performance to see what I’m talking about.  Phil wants me to say that the singers voices were almost as sultry as his.  It was a good way to end off our Lisbon leg of the trip.

This morning Cyn and Rog left us to go to Madrid.  The remaining 7 of us rented a van and we are now in Sagres at the southwestern tip of Portugal, or Europe for that matter.  On the drive here we got dinged 95 euros on the highway for a toll because we didn’t get a ticket from some machine when we got on to the highway.  Ouch.  Anyways, we’ve arrived at our house, and it seriously looks like a place Scarface would live at.  It’s a massive mansion overlooking the ocean with an infiniti pool, 5 bathrooms and 4 bedrooms.  No coke though mom, don’t worry.  We’re here to surf for a few days, so we’ll tell you how the ocean is tomorrow.  It’s nice to be in a small surf town again.  Gnarly.

And now we are 9

Seven of our friends arrived yesterday to join us.  Once everyone was settled into their apartments (we´ve rented 3 condos next door to each other) we took off for dinner.  Before we left, Roger made sure he dropped his money on the living room floor to see if Di and I learnt our lesson.  Thanks Rog.  Anyways, we went to eat at Sinal Vermelho in the Bairro Alto.  It was a sort of celebratory dinner since 1) it was Rog´s birthday 2) Our friend Cynthia is a breast cancer survivor and she has just passed the 5 year mark of needing to take tamoxifen 3) We were in Lisbon together!
After a great meal we wandered the streets of the Bairro Alto.  Basically the neighbourhood has a bunch of little bars and restaurants.  People walk into the bars which are usually pretty packed (they have a capacity of 20 people maybe, with a couple of small tables).  They buy their drinks and then stand outside in the streets or wander around as music blares from the bars.  It´s quite hilly with cobblestone streets so it reminds me of a toned down version of lan kwai fong in hong kong, or a more orderly version of lapa in Rio de Janeiro.  I´ll upload a pic of it once we get WiFi again with our own computer.  With beers and Sangria being 1 euro each, needless to say we had a great night.  Right now it´s 12pm and most of the group is still sleeping, hopefully they´ll get up in the next hour so we can catch at least one museum and have the best egg tarts ever at the pasteis de Belem.

Oh, you know you´re too fat when….
Phil can´t take a shower here without knocking open the shower door.  Everytime he bends down to grab soap or shampoo, his ass knocks the door open.  Granted the shower stalls are small, but the rest of us just don´t have that problem.  Take a hint Phil.

Oh one more thing.  There´s a lot of dog crap on the streets here. A lot.  So yesterday when Rog was dragging his suitcase to the condo from the taxi, he inadvertently rolled through some.  Jay, being the helpful guy he always is, decided to help Rog by carrying his bag up the stairs, not knowing there was crap on it.  Guess who ended up with dog crap all over his jeans.  hahaha

Much better today

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It’s amazing what 8 glasses of port and a mild state of inebriation can do to your spirits.  We spent today checking out the port-wine lodges in the town of Porto.  Porto is basically the centre of the port wine universe.  For those who don’t know, port wine is “fortified”, which basically means brandy is added to it.  Unlike Napa Valley or the Okanagan where you have to drive from winery to winery to do the tastings, here all the port wineries have lodges in Porto where they blend, age and process the wine.  The best thing is that they’re basically next door to each other.  You can also head to the wineries to do the tastings but they’re about 100 kms outta town.  We might have done that if we had time, but since we have to be back to Lisbon tomorrow, drinking at the lodges it was.  We started at the Taylor winery because it was the farthest up the hill.  No one likes walking uphill, especially buzzed.  They gave us a good intro into port and then it was onto drinking.  It just so happened they had a highly rated restaurant, Barao Fladgate, with an expansive view of Porto as well.  Though the food was underwhelming, the port was awesome.  Try a bottle of the Taylor late bottled vintage if you have the chance.  We then went off to the Caves Ramos Pinto lodge (owned by French champagne company Roederer), and finished at Sandeman’s (owned by Canadian company Seagrams).  We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the labyrinth of steep streets and alleyways which was pretty fun.  For dinner tonight I had a Francesinha while Di stuck with a tuna baguette (not because she wanted a tuna baguette but because it was the only thing she understood on the menu).  The Francesinha is a Porto specialty sandwhich that consists of bread, cheese, an egg, and a stack of mystery meats.  After that it’s soaked in a tomato/beer gravy.  Yes it’s disgusting and yes my stomach also disagreed.  I wasn’t drunk enough to enjoy a nasty gravy-soaked-soggy sandwhich with equally soaked soggy fries.  We’re headed back to Lisbon tomorrow on the first train to try to rectify the passport situation as soon as possible.  Needless to say, I will not be picking up anyone’s change this time.

And I thought I was travel savvy…..

So it only took 5 days of our year long vacation to get robbed.  Our passports, Di’s wallet and cards are now in the hands of some teenage jerk.  We had a great time in Lisbon so far but decided to head north for a few days to Porto to drink some port and check out the city.  We were on the train, unfortunately at the last seats by the door.  Our train was departing at 9:30 am, and at 9:29 this kid dropped his coins right by us.  Being nice idiots we helped him pick them up (though he didn’t get down and help…wonder why), and by then the train had started moving.  As I returned the coins to him and smiled he quickly hopped off before the train had gathered too much momentum.  About one minute later as the train was at full speed Di looks at me and says “where’s my bag?”.  We have 5 bags with us (2 big backpacks, 2 small backpacks and a camera bag) and he took off with the most important one.  After a crappy 3 hour train ride we arrived in Porto and went to the police station.  They were extremely helpful with aiding us, but it still sucked bigtime.  Now we gotta go back to Lisbon and re-issue new passports at about 230 bucks a piece (including the emergency one).  Plus we lost our visas for other countries so we gotta figure out how to re-issue them without being in Canada.  We called the bank, and that kid had tried to use the debit and credit cards multiple times already.  Oh well, at least people have been extremely helpful during this time as well (bank, police, embassy, train conductor and neighbours on the train).  2 American student girls sitting in front of us offered to give us money which was extremely generous and nice.  Hopefully tomorrow we’ll become port experts and the tawny flavours can wash the sour taste out of our mouths.  

Go Canada Go!!

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We managed to find a bar in Lisbon where we could watch the gold medal hockey game!  We found it via good old trusty tripadvisor.com thinking we’d be the only two people watching it.  But it turned out there were other fellow Canadian travelers in Lisbon too!  We had some boys from Toronto, Ottawa, Montreal and Kamloops there.  There were two Americans as well, and they were gracious enough to take our victory pics when all was said and done.  Thanks to Hennessy’s Irish Pub, we had the upstairs section blocked off for us, while the rest of the bar was all cheering for a local soccer game at the same time that evening.  It did get a bit confusing when everyone else was cheering while the commercial was on.  But it all worked out quite well.  After the game, the Toronto boys started singing O Canada, and was later echoed by the live band with bryan adams and celine dion songs.  Needless to say we left after that and headed up to Bairro Alto to grab another drink before calling it a night.  Go Canada Go!